Eyebrows balance out the rest of the face makeup and can be cool or warm toned, bushy or sleek.
My brows are ever changing. I’ve probably been through every phase in the book of eyebrow styles. Up until a few years ago I didn’t even know you could fill in your brows with products, then I first used a black kohl eyebrow pencil because I thought that’s the way to go.
Nowadays I play with the different looks full or thin eyebrows can achieve. But I mostly end up using the same couple of products and the same technique over and over again so here’s a breakdown of my „natural“ brow routine!
Prime the brow:
Start off by plucking any stray hairs with the tweezerman tweezers. Don’t pluck any that are close to the eyebrow itself to prevent overplucking. Just tweeze 3-5 hairs you see lingering on your lid to clean up the eye. Most people don’t think about priming the eyebrows but you will apply just as much product to the skin beneath the brow hairs as you will do on the rest of your face. I prefer to use a thin layer of a silicon based gel primer that is without any color (like the NARS smudge proof pro primer)!
This will serve as an eyeshadow primer as well so blend it all over the eye lid, below the eye and up through the brow for a flawless and even blending experience. You want your brow to be a part of the eye makeup not compete with it. Before we start applying any product comb through the brow hairs with an upward motion to get rid of excess primer and to discover the actual form of your brow.
Fill in the gaps:
I then slowly fill in any gaps and line my brows by doing hair like strokes with the ABH brow whiz in taupe. Instead of outlining the brow with a square and color it in start at the front of your brows and flick up the pencil to create a „bushy“ front brow. To avoid harsh lines, angle the pencil low and put barely an pressure on the strokes. I then work my way all the way down the tail of my brow. The only time I will draw a horizontal line is when I want to give the arch and tail a little more dimension but even that is being done just ever so slightly, Depending on the look I’m going for I will either make the upper part of the arch more round or square, but that is the only time I will actually draw on the top of the brow! Make sure to always comb through with a spoolie between strokes to make everything blend seemlessly. I also prefer to do my brows further away in a big mirror instead of a small hand held mirror. This way you will see how the brow looks on the face instead of focusing on just each tiny hair up close. It’s better to get a feel for the big picture and evaluate the overall look of the brows on your face rather than the perfection of the strokes. If I’m doing a no makeup makeup look or am in a hurry I will stop here and just run some clear brow gel through.
Depth & Darkness:
To give it more depth though I’ll add a touch of the Dior Diorshow brow chalk in 02 at the arch of the brow to give the brow a slight gradient effect. The nice thing about this brow chalk is that compared to the brow whiz it doesn’t draw on the skin but actually colors the hair. Its much more powdery so it will emphasize the texture of brow hair, making everything look a little more natural even though we added a lot more color and product. While I have to say the big pencil is kind of hard to maneuver it’s really easy to clean up any mistakes with a Q-tip. I never use any concealer to shape my brows because I find it way to harsh but I’m making an exception when I accidentally colored outside the brow too much with the Dior brow chalk. Since this is actually a limited edition product from their Runway Collection (I stocked up of course) a good dupe is the MAC Big Brow pen in Lingering. It’s a more soft and wax-y texture but it’s also a big jumbo like pencil that can add some depth and darkness if you choose the right color.
Set & Shape:
I always set my brows with a gel, preferably a waterproof one. In my opinion it’s the most important step of all. I’d rather skip filling in my brows and just use a tinted brow gel. That’s actually all I wear during summer (I prefer the MAC brow gel in blonde to add some warmth to my ashy brows). But depending on the boldness and darkness I want I either choose a clear one like the Make Up For Ever HD brow gel in „clear“ or use the MAC Pro Longwear brow gel in „brunette“. No matter how convenient a tinted gel seems, I find them really messy and hard to apply because they literally tint every hair. If you don’t have a perfectly shaped brow it will emphasize those stray hairs. But it is really great for that effortless summer look- and if it’s waterproof it can even be worn by the beach or pool-side! I defiantly need to try more clear brow gels as soon as I run out of my current one.